Projects

Ruckus ICX 7150-C12P Switch Repair

A while ago I purchased a Ruckus ICX 7150-c12p off eBay to use at home. It gives 14x1gb/s ports, and 2 SFP+ ports. The SFP+ ports are limited to 1gb/s by default, and there is a honor system license for upgrading them to 10gb/s. These switches go for $600 – $1200 depending on where you get them and which license you get with it (1gb/s vs 10gb/s). The switch is also POE, and can do 4 POE+ (30 watt) ports. I had one of these switches and it worked great. I wanted to get a second one to replace the WiFi link I was using across my apartment with a fiber link.

Instead of paying ~$250, which was their going rate on eBay; I saw a forum post about replacing this models power supply, and thought I would give that a shot. I got a broken switch for $45, and then a PSU for $50. The PSU I used was a SL Power LB130S56K 56V 2.32 130W. Armed with someone’s photos of doing this repair it ended up going fine. The hardest part of the whole operation is that the pins going onto the main board are reversed from what the power supply comes with, so you need to flip them. I have been running the unit for almost 2 years now without issue.

This model of switch is great because of its features and is fanless. The fanless-ness part of it is nice for homelabs near your desk, because the switches are silent. Because they are fanless, they cant have anything put on top of them, and need some room to breath. I think a lot of the ones you see online dead are because someone didn’t give it enough air, and the PSU died. Note when looking for a similar dead switch on eBay, you really want the seller saying “when plugged in nothing happens”, not “it periodically blinks” because that could be bad ram and its in a boot loop.

Having run two of these switches for over a year, I can give some feedback. I really like them. I have the two I have in a stack, I login once and manage both. When it comes time for firmware updates you SCP the file to the management IP, and it downloads the file to both, and then flashes and reloads. I came from using Cisco gear usually, or sometimes Arista; the CLI is a bit different, and Ruckus handles VLAN setup a bit weird, but once you get used to it, it makes sense. They are solid switches, with POE, that you can set and forget for a while.

New PC Build 2022

Having built my PC a few years ago, I was thinking about upgrading it, but with chip prices being what they are, and graphics cards costing more than a new car, I thought I would wait. Then a friend of mine happen to have an AMD 5800X that he was willing to give me a deal on… After years of having the custom case, while it was nice, it was HUGE and made it difficult to setup a desk in a tiny New York apartment. I used this opportunity to shrink a bit, and update some of the components. I say some, because some of them (like the graphics card) were going to stay to save cost.

Old case being taken apart, its a bit of a mess

At this point, this post is mostly a standard PC build, with a few hiccups along the way. Looking on the Small Form Factor PC subreddit, and https://caseend.com/ (a website for small pc cases), I settled on the ZZAW C3. It is relatively small, supports Micro-ATX, full size graphics cards, and all-in-one water coolers in a ~22 liter case. I always try to get Micro-ATX over Mini-ITX for my desktop because you get more PCI slots; as well as 4 DIMMs for RAM instead of 2. I also wanted to try one of these all-in-one water coolers, since I never had and thought I could get good results (and a quiet case).

The case came nicely wrapped. There were not a lot of instructions on how to put the case and system together, you kind of just had to know. That took a bit of trial and error. There are a few screws that are very similar sizes, and not labeled. The whole setup went smoothly after that except that getting the cooler to fit in the case was a bit of a challenge, and the motherboard… So, the motherboard… I got a AsRock X570 Pro4 motherboard, it had all the features I wanted. I get the case put together, I installed my previous power supply, I kept the RAM and graphics card, moved my SSD over (I had a PCIe Gen 4 Samsung 980 Pro on order, but it hadn’t come in yet), put thermal paste on the CPU, install the cooler AND… nothing. System will not boot.

There are lights on the motherboard saying CPU, RAM, and DISK failed. I start searching online and trying different things. A bit in, someone says “make sure your motherboard is updated to support 5000 series AMD”. I just got this board, its fairly new, it has to work right? Well turns out you need BIOS version 3.20 to support the CPU I have, AsRock is at 4.20 for this motherboard. After taking my old 2600X out of my old motherboard, taking out the new CPU, cleaning the thermal paste, reseating, re-thermal pasting the 2600X, turns out the board shipped with version 3.10… One revision before what I needed. I updated the BIOS, then swapped the CPU back, doing all those steps again. This time, the system worked.

I later got the Samsung 980 Pro SSD, which was a tiny bit of a headache to migrate over because I had Bitlocker on and trying to relocate the bootloader was not straight forward. I kept getting “Boot Device Not Found” and eventually somehow doing a system restore to before the last Windows Update got Windows 10 to reinstall the bootloader on the drive. I have no idea why that would have fixed it. I had disabled Bitlocker before starting this ordeal, but that just does it one reboot, I really needed to just fully disable it to save me typing in the recovery pin many times.

The system is working well. The only remaining issue, that is very odd, but I am just living with is whenever the system attempts to do a restart, it freezes before coming back. It properly shuts down, and if I hold the power button and then turn it back on everything is fine. But it refuses to gracefully restart. It also will fully shutdown fine. Odd…

Towing a U-Haul with a Subaru Forester

Recently I was helping a family member move states. They had some larger, but light, furniture to move and we were trying to figure out a solution. Having recently gotten a 2021 Subaru Forester with a tow hitch on it I thought I would help them move those items with a U-Haul trailer. I could not find a lot online about this, other than a few Reddit/Forum posts; so I thought I would post about what I learned.

One of the main reasons we went with renting a U-Haul we would tow over a truck is cost. U-Haul trucks cost is based on distance, U-Haul trailers come with unlimited miles. The estimate we got for renting a truck was around $1,300 for 3 days, the trailer was $550. We were renting for 4 days.

First the 2021 Forester (non-wilderness package) is rated to tow 1,500lbs in the US. That is the big issue and ceiling that you will hit. The 4×8 is 850lbs empty, and the 5×8 is 900lbs empty. That leaves us with only 600lbs of capacity when getting the larger one that can fit a bed. Is this a hard ceiling? No, but as people on Reddit and other sites have pointed out it can wear out your car (mostly the transmission) more if you tow over that, specially if you do this often. I knew the route I was going to take, and that 98% of it would be flat interstates. That, along with knowing I was towing lighter things, made me less worried about the weight.

The next thing to worry about is how to hook it up. The U-Hauls come with a 2 inch ball mount coupler. My Forester had the hitch installed from Subaru. Subaru puts in a Class I, 1-1/4 inch receiver. I used the following ball mount, which ended up working perfectly.

Ball Mount: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-45572-Euro-Mount-Ball/dp/B003B3GX5E/

I spoke to U-Haul on the phone and they said you want the hitch to be level at about 18.5 to 18.75 inches off the ground. The Forester mount is about 14 inches off the ground, and the above posted ball mount adds 4 5/8s inches, giving you the height you want.

I got the CURT 21410 Trailer hitch pin Amazon recommended. DO NOT GET THIS ONE. It is 2 inches long, with the extra metal around the mount for the hitch, this pin would not fit the stock Subaru hitch. It didn’t fit just by a hair. I ended up at the last minute going to Home Depot and getting a 2 1/4 inch long, 1/2 inch thick pin that fit.

Now that we had the hitch, we are off! I ordered a 5×8 U-Haul 2 months before we needed it on U-Hauls website, I quickly got a call saying they don’t have one at the local rental place, but would get back to me within 48 hours of the rental to tell me where to pick it up. The call never came. With less than 24 hours left, I call the main 1-800 number, and work with a nice lady on the phone to find where I can pick one up. There was a different facility than the only I selected online, 30 miles away that had it available.

The next day I was there when I would them I would be to pick it up, and no one was there. There was a sign on the door saying “for help call X number”, and then someone answered and within 5 minutes was over to help me. The pickup place was a small business attached to a self storage place who check once a day or so for pickups, and since at the last minute I changed it, it wasn’t noticed. I was just happy the person came so quick to help me get going.

With having the hitch already on the car, pickup took less than 5 minutes. I didn’t know if they would inspect the car, or check anything, but he said just back up to the trailer and we will hook it up. I asked the older gentleman if there is any advice he would have for someone who has not towed before. He said to leave extra stopping room, and make wide turns. The trailer dropped right on the ball, then we attached the wiring for the lights, and checked they were working. The standard 4 pin hookup the Forester hitch came with was exactly what the trailer had. Another important thing I was told for towing, CROSS THE SAFETY CHAINS BEFORE ATTACHING TO THE CAR. Apparently if you don’t cross the chains you can get a ticket, and State Troopers LOVE to give out tickets for it.

The smaller trailers (4×8, 5×8) do not have breaks, they fully rely on your cars brakes. This is something to think about; for instance, parking on a hill, all the weight of the trailer rests on your car and its transmission. I used the parking break a lot when parking the trailer. When I grabbed the trailer it had 2 wood blocks under the tires to keep it in place, I asked to take those with me (which ended up being a very good idea). They helped when parking in some locations, as well as when you want to take the trailer off, if you don’t have them it will want to roll because it has no brakes of its own. When I went to drop it off, the other U-Haul location (I did a one way trip), required those blocks to hold it the trailer in place, so I once again was glad I had them. They may have had some more of their own, but get the blocks when you pick it up, you’ll be glad you did.

The trailer says max speed 55, and after a bit of getting used to it, I felt comfortable with that. You just have to get used to being in the right lane, and giving plenty of room when changing lanes. It takes a while to start and stop, be prepared for that. Some people online mentioned and I felt one or two times, if you brake too hard, and then the trailer pushes forward on your car, the automatic transmission does not like that ad can rev up in situations you wouldn’t want it to.

I hope this post helps anyone who has a similar situation, and feel free to drop questions or your experience!

CentOS 8 Migration

I have a pipeline which creates live images to network boot different systems. Historically this has been based on CentOS. A little while ago I moved it to CentOS 8 because I had some newer hardware that was not supported on the older kernel of 7. Everything was working well until recently when CentOS 8 went end of life, and I could no longer rely on the CentOS 8 Docker containers.

The journey began for a new EL8 system. I wanted to keep on EL8 instead of switching to Streams because all the other systems I had running were EL8 (CentOS 8 or RHEL8), and I wanted to keep compatibility. At the same time, I didn’t want to do a new build of the image, have things break, and not realize it was because of a CentOS Streams change upstream. I also used the CentOS 8 docker container which seems to have been pulled, so that forced me to do this change now.

My first thought was Oracle Linux. It has been around for a while, is ALMOST drop in compatible, and can be used without going and getting licenses (RHEL). (There are some small silly things like instead of “epel-release” the package is “oracle-epel-release-el8”) This lead to nothing but issues. I replaced all the repos I had in the image creation stage with Oracle Linux ones, then every build I got a ton of “nothing provides module(platform:el8)” lines for any package that used yum/dnf modules. I spent a chunk of time on this, finding no real answers, and one Oracle support page that looked like it could help saying I needed to buy a support contract. Classic Oracle. At one point I thought it had something to do with Commit – rpms/centos-release – 89457ca3bf36c7c29d47c5d573a819dd7ee054fe – CentOS Git server where a line in os-release confuses dnf, but then that line was there. Also Oracle doesn’t seem to have a kickstart url repo, which is needed to do this sort of network boot. They wanted the end user to set that repo up, which may be the source of my issues. This also touched on the issue Disable Modular Filtering in Kickstart Repos – Red Hat Customer Portal, but I wasn’t even getting to a base OS setup, then I could make changes to the os and dnf for how it processes modules.

In my searches I did find this nice script to get bash variables for OS and version. https://unix.stackexchange.com/a/6348

Then I figured I would try either AlmaLinux or Rocky Linux. They both came out around when Redhat said Cent 8 was going away. Looking into both projects, they both are backed by AWS and Equinix who are big players, which made me feel a bit better about it. I had heard a bit more about Rocky and its support, so I tried that. I dropped in the new repos, and kickstart location, and everything just worked… Even things that were a issue when playing with Oracle Linux went away. For example, epel-release was once again called what it should be.

In the end so far it seems to be happy! We will see if any other small differences pop up and bite me…

Below is an example of the top of the kickstart I am using, if anyone is interested in more of how I create live images, leave a comment and I can do a post on it:

lang en_US.UTF-8
keyboard us
timezone Europe/Brussels --isUtc
auth --useshadow --enablemd5
selinux --disable
network --device=eno1 --bootproto=dhcp
skipx
part / --size 4096 --fstype ext4
part /opt --size 4096 --fstype ext4
firewall --disabled

url --url=https://download.rockylinux.org/pub/rocky/8/BaseOS/x86_64/kickstart/

# Root password
rootpw --iscrypted <Insert encrypted password here>

repo --name=baseos --baseurl=https://download.rockylinux.org/pub/rocky/8/BaseOS/x86_64/os/ --install
repo --name=extras --baseurl=https://download.rockylinux.org/pub/rocky/8/extras/x86_64/os/ --install
repo --name=appstream --baseurl=https://download.rockylinux.org/pub/rocky/8/AppStream/x86_64/os/ --install

Hardening Embedded Apache Tomcat 9

I recently was working to make sure some of my web apps can pass a Tenable Nessus security scan. Since I tend to use the same embedded Tomcat for a lot of the apps I kept hitting similar findings. I had to do a bit of digging to find some of these answers so I thought I would document them. If anyone else has any helpful tips for embedded Tomcat please feel free to comment!

Apache Tomcat Default Files

Apache Tomcat Default Files | Tenable®

The main issue with this finding is that the 404 page the app presents has the Tomcat version number. This could be a issue because if there is a vuln in that version, you can be targeted.

final Tomcat tomcat = new Tomcat();

var host = (StandardHost) tomcat.getHost(); 
var errorReportValve = new org.apache.catalina.valves.ErrorReportValve();
errorReportValve.setShowReport(false); 
errorReportValve.setShowServerInfo(false); 
host.addValve(errorReportValve);

errorReportValve.setProperty(“errorCode.0”, “empty.html”);

The above line can be used if you want to specify a 404 page to use instead.

Source: https://stackoverflow.com/a/59967152

Web Application Potentially Vulnerable to Clickjacking

Web Application Potentially Vulnerable to Clickjacking | Tenable®

This finding is because the application is not sending the proper X-Frame-Options or Content-Security-Policy headers.

final Tomcat tomcat = new Tomcat();

final Context ctx = tomcat.addContext("/", MY_FILE_LOC);

FilterDef httpHeaderSecurityFilter = new FilterDef();
httpHeaderSecurityFilter.setFilterName("httpHeaderSecurity");
httpHeaderSecurityFilter.setFilterClass("org.apache.catalina.filters.HttpHeaderSecurityFilter");
httpHeaderSecurityFilter.addInitParameter("antiClickJackingEnabled", String.valueOf(Boolean.TRUE)); 
httpHeaderSecurityFilter.addInitParameter("antiClickJackingOption", "DENY");
httpHeaderSecurityFilter.addInitParameter("xssProtectionEnabled", String.valueOf(Boolean.TRUE));
httpHeaderSecurityFilter.addInitParameter("blockContentTypeSniffingEnabled", String.valueOf(Boolean.TRUE));
httpHeaderSecurityFilter.setAsyncSupported(String.valueOf(Boolean.TRUE));

FilterMap httpHeaderSecurityFilterMap = new FilterMap();
httpHeaderSecurityFilterMap.setFilterName("httpHeaderSecurity");
httpHeaderSecurityFilterMap.addURLPattern("/*");
httpHeaderSecurityFilterMap.setDispatcher("REQUEST");

ctx.addFilterDef(httpHeaderSecurityFilter);
ctx.addFilterMap(httpHeaderSecurityFilterMap);

Source: https://github.com/jiaguangzhao/base/blob/905aaf4111f4779e236043ff423951672ade848a/src/main/java/com/example/base/aop/configure/TomcatConfigure.java

CentOS/Rhel 8 Auto login Fix

I have a PXE environment that requires systems to boot up, then automatically login and start a program on boot. All of a sudden this stopped working after years of working. It took me a while to figure it out so figured I would post in case anyone else ran into this.

I have been doing auto login the recommended systemd for a while, as shown: https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/Getty. I copied /lib/systemd/system/getty@.service into /etc/systemd/system/getty@tty1.service. Then with a script edited it using sed in the build pipeline. In the end the line was:

ExecStart=-/usr/bin/agetty --noclear %I $TERM --autologin username

This worked for YEARS, then suddenly stopped. In investigating, I saw another file was being written next to mine at /etc/systemd/system/getty@tty1.servicee ; with another e added to the end of service, making it servicee. After a lot of playing around with it and looking at other guides I figured out, there was a update to systemd/getty and now it cares that all options are before the terminal variable is presented. Changing that line to the following fixed it.

ExecStart=-/usr/bin/agetty --noclear --autologin username %I $TERM 

Homelab: 802.1x 2021

One technology I have played around with a little at work but wanted to get a better handle on is 802.1x. I have taken and passed the Cisco ISE cert a few years back and have used that with other services at work, but for the home setup I mostly wanted to be able to put different wireless devices onto different vlans based on device and user. Windows Server natively makes this possible with Network Policy Server (NPS).

An example of me playing with Network Policy Server

NPS is a Radius server in Windows at the end of the day. It gives you the conditions and a rules system to respond to different Radius calls, as well as a way to setup Accounting. It is fairly simple compared to something like ISE that can also do Posture and Profiling for devices; but for a quick free solution works well for home. You can say of a client is attempting to authenticate over a system like wireless, then accept x methods, vs if its wired or a switch login then accept other forms. Instead of going point by point of how to set it up, which you can find elsewhere online, I want to give some high level edge cases you may run into. First NPS need Windows Server with the Desktop experience, if you are running member servers or domain controllers as Server Core to simplify the environment then it will not work. NPS also does not easily HA. You can run multiple servers with it running, and export the config from one, then import it in another, but there is not a good system for dynamically syncing these (less you call random peoples PowerShell scripts a good system).

Some good reasons to use NPS is the simple AD integration, you can have users use their domain auth and easily get access. Or do as I do, really too much for home, or possibly anywhere, setup a domain CA, have a GPO that creates certs for each machine, then use cert based auth via 802.1x deployed via GPO. If anyone has questions about this I am happy to answer, but there are many places online that will talk about each of those configs and how to do them. Another place to integrate Radius other than 802.1x for wired and wireless is network device login. I use Radius for the stack of Ruckus switches (2 is considered a stack (like when you run k3s as a “cluster” of 1)) I have at home.

This is one of those Windows Services that works well, but also has not been touched in YEARS by Microsoft; like WSUS, or any other service that is useful. To backup this point, I installed several old versions of Windows Server in ESXi that I had laying around. Lesson 1 that I learned, the web console doesn’t work well with some of the legacy mouse support systems. Second you may need legacy VMware tools iso VMware Tools support for Windows 2000, Windows XP, and Windows Server 2003 (81466). The internet seems to say it came out in Server 2008.

https://social.microsoft.com/Forums/getfile/51145/

Building a Pac Man Battle Royale Table

This is a post I was working off and on for several years. It is something I always was meaning to finish, and got very near the end, the Covid and life happen. Instead of throwing it out I figured I would do some small edits then put out as is.

(2017) Friends and I always found the game Pac-Man Battle Royale to be fun, but when we went to look at the price of a cabinet they were $5,000! Worth it if you are a bar or arcade, but for a few friends playing games a bit over the top. After a evening at Barcade, I started the trek to see if I could build one myself for less.

Original Table

The first step was figuring out where I could legally get the game, a number of sites offered the ROM but that is not what I was looking for. Next I found it was ported and available on Steam! We are in luck! The game is available for less than $10! But once I start it, I am greeted by a “fun” border and changes they made to the screen for the Windows version.

Steam Version
Steam Version
Arcade Version
Arcade Version

On the left you can see the Steam version; there is a border, along with all the player text is facing one direction. On the right is the original version, where the screen goes to the edge, and the 3rd and 4th players face the other direction for when players are standing around the table. This version also has been made to play with Xbox 360 wired controllers, it works with keyboard but a lot of the interface seems to be built around that.

The solution, a brave hero on Github made a modified DirectX9 driver that edits the game screen as you play! https://github.com/vikbez/pacbrcade After installing this file, I was able to get the game to look just like the original! Below are the before and afters from the repo, and I can attest it does a great job! Throw in a script to start the game at startup of a Intel Compute Stick (a full pc on a HDMI dongle), and this was ready to go.

(2021) Now it came time to build the cabinet, I hadn’t built something thing big before and didn’t really have a large plan. The hope was to have this live at the office. Being in NYC it needed to be able to fold up, and then be put somewhere when not in use. Part of my plans were to give it folding legs, and one side of the table should be a rest, so the legs can be folded and it can be put on its side somewhere out of the way.

Most of the construction was actually done in one weekend in 2017, I got some 2x4s and went to the maker space I am a member of fat cat FAB LAB – NYC Hackerspace to cut the boards down to the sizes. Now this was a bit of a rough day because I was in NYC, and I am literally grabbing large 2x4s (some are 6 or 7 feet long) then walking a few blocks to the woodshop as people are drinking on a Saturday around me on the streets, then cutting them and walking several blocks to the office. After all is said and done, I used a normal drill and some wood screws to put it all together. I then used yellow vinyl wrap to make the table a bit more dressed up. Getting bubbles out of the vinyl wrapper, on a wood surface that isn’t completely flat was a bit of a challenge. I had a area for the screen to go in, then 4 sides; 2 with cup holders, and 2 with joysticks.

I used Teensy micro controllers as the joysticks, they emulate joysticks on a computer and you an make any input trigger any signal you want. I wanted to add some more style to the unit so I made Player 1 through 4 acrylic panels to go around the joystick and button. These were laser cut at the same woodshop I used before. I also ended up getting craft beer labels, and putting it on the inside of the buttons; that gave the unit a little more character. I put the rubber molding along the side of the unit, as you would expect from any good arcade system. After installing an old screen I found around I toped it with a sheet of clear plexiglass. This was a learning experience of plexiglass scratches easily and can crack if too much pressure is put in say a screw hole.

The whole thing worked, it booted up on the Compute Stick, auto loaded Steam, and started the game. The main issue that had me put it away for a while was the joystick handling. The joysticks I had were 8 way joysticks; they could go to the 4 sides but also to all the corners, we didn’t want the corners. In a game like Pac-Man, going to the corners of the joystick made the character either not move or go in one of the 2 directions you were facing.

The bottom of the joysticks had a plastic piece which allowed the rod of the joystick to go in certain directions. On the bottom of the units I had it was a empty square. I wanted it to be a diamond, this would have forced the player in going one of 4 directions instead. The plan was to design a piece then 3D print it and attach it to the bottom of all the joysticks.

With that I put the system into a closet, where it sat for several years. There was the issue on top of all this of being in NYC and there was no place to put the thing where it would not be in the way. I worked on this before I had a 3D printer and could have put the piece together quickly.

In the end it was fun to put something together quickly like this. I got to do some bigger wood working and vinyl wrap something. One take away I have from it was the momentum of a project cant be a very motivating thing. I started and put most of the system together in a single weekend. Then the last few percent of the project, getting the joysticks correct, I lost the energy (and didn’t have a place to put the thing) and went onto other projects. I try to use that motivation to push through projects when possible, and use this project as a reminder to do that.

Briel Computers Replica 1 Plus

Kit

I recently ordered the Briel Computers Replica I Plus, a Apple I clone. Instead of the originals big board to do a lot of NTSC generation, it uses a more modern single chip. The shipment came in a small box, and with everything I needed. The creator of the kit did a great job including everything you need, down to including an anti-static strap! The project came with some solder, but not nearly enough for everything, I think it was thicker to go with the structural points. Briel Computers sells the kit through ReActiveMicro.com. At $135 it is one of the less expensive kits I have had, but also comes with just the board. If you want a case that needs to be 3D Printed (more on that later).

ReActiveMicro points you over to the Project Wiki for more information, there is a ton there and a link to someone putting the project together. I found this easier to follow along and do than reading the instructions.

The kit was fairly easy and straight forward; I ran into a few small issues around the PS/2 port since the solder points are close together. Getting the few connector ports in can be a bit difficult with a few tiny pins and getting them in the board. As long as you have patience, then you can get through it.

I got it all together, and the board started the first try. I did have the same issue the person who made the video had; I was getting a lot of noise and characters added to the screen. I reflowed a lot of the sockets, and made sure all the socketed chips were fully seated. That cleared up the garbage at startup. The wiki also has some other notes on noise issues the board can show.

I also could not find a PS/2 keyboard in the house, and all the USB keyboards I had didn’t seem to like the USB->PS/2 Adapter. I am not very surprised by this because I didn’t have any very simple, older keyboards.

The USB port that is used for power is also a serial device for a PC/Mac. I plugged into that and got the serial driver working from SparkFun website, they produce the module. Then the output worked well, and I could enter BASIC on the board!

Case

I wanted to put the board in some sort of case, and after searching online I couldn’t find any. I thought I would throw something together quickly that I could put the board in. I took some measurements and threw together a V0 of the case. One small issue was I didn’t account for the RCA jack the video comes out of little let that sticks out. Instead of spending another 7 hours printing a new one, I used a little saw I have to cut a hole out.

Part of my thought of creating a case was to have something I could put the board in, then store it in a cabinet or shelf and not be worried that the board would get damaged. I also made a case that can go over the entire unit to protect it in storage.

Again, looking back small design things could have been changed, like flip the name of the project in the case, so looking at it in the protective cover, the text would be right right way. Getting the scaffolding out of the protective case was not the easiest of things. I designed the protective case with a rail that brings the edge of the mounting board into a locking position when you slide it in. I have to say, that was a nice aspect to the design. It took over 6 hours to print though.

Cisco ISR 4451 Serial Password Recovery

I had to password recover a Cisco ISR 4451, and kept having issues getting into the ROMMON prompt. Every guide mentioned sending a BREAK character during startup, but I could not get that to work. I was using the mini-USB port in the front, and as far as I knew did not have password recovery disabled. It turns out there is a problem with the mini-USB port and the Mac driver, I switched to using a traditional serial cable with a DB-9 connector/RJ45 serial port and suddenly I could get into ROMMON. I wanted to post incase anyone else runs into this.

Below is the startup process, at the end there you should be able to send a BREAK character.

Initializing Hardware ...

System integrity status: 00000610
Rom image verified correctly


System Bootstrap, Version 15.3(3r)S1, RELEASE SOFTWARE
Copyright (c) 1994-2013  by cisco Systems, Inc.

Current image running: Boot ROM0

Last reset cause: PowerOn
Cisco ISR4451-X/K9 platform with 4194304 Kbytes of main memory


Warning: filesystem is not clean
File size is 0x1d482044
Located isr4400-universalk9.03.16.04b.S.155-3.S4b-ext.SPA.bin 
<SEND BREAK HERE>